The Tsakonian costume is one of the most significant elements of the cultural heritage of Tsakonia, an area with rich history deeply connected to trade and maritime activities. The Tsakonians, as merchants and shipowners, traveled to various places, bringing back luxurious fabrics and materials, which the women transformed into impressive outfits. These costumes, known as “tzoumpeloudes,” were not only everyday attire but also a display of wealth and social status, especially during festivals and religious ceremonies. The costume played a central role in the social and cultural life of Tsakonia, symbolizing local identity, tradition and spirituality.
The Costume and Its Elements
The traditional Tsakonian costume consists of seven main parts, each of which holds particular significance and symbolism:
1. Ongiouma (garment): The shirt of the costume, which was quite long and decorated with intricate embroidery. The collar and sleeves often featured lace or fine embroidery, reflecting the skill and care of the women who made them.
2. Vrachani (dress): It was a woolen dress, usually green, wide and fastened at the waist. The lower part, known as “podogiourai,” was adorned with a broad red felt strip. The original form of the costume included a dress with large sleeves, which was later replaced by a sleeveless dress, making the addition of a vest essential to complete the ensemble.
3. Zipouni (vest): It was decorated with wide sleeves that flared at the elbows. The decorative lines on the sleeves consisted of three different types: thin burgundy lines, a beige surface with floral patterns and leaf-shaped chain designs.
4. Tzoumpes (overgarment): A long sleeveless garment made of red felt that reached down to the feet and was considered the most distinctive part of the Tsakonian costume. It had to reach the yellow part of the dress without covering it, providing a special visual harmony to the attire.
5. Magliki or Spileto (scarf): A silk scarf in an olive shade, worn around the neck and covering the chest. It was fastened with a golden pin, adding an extra layer of elegance to the overall outfit.
6. Zostra (belt): A gold-embroidered band, three fingers wide, tied around the waist over the vest. The two ends of the belt were joined with a metal clasp made of steel, featuring intricate decorative motifs.
7. Fesi (cap): It was the headpiece, made from red felt. It featured a blue silk tassel that reached down to the woman’s chest.
History and Social Role of the Costume
The Tsakonian costume was not just everyday clothing but symbolized a woman’s identity and social standing. The “tzoumpes”, in particular, was a special garment worn by young women during festivals and religious ceremonies. The wealth accumulated in Kynouria through flourishing trade was expressed through the elaborate women’s attire. The colors of the costume, such as yellow and red, were chosen for their symbolic meaning. Red, in particular, was considered the color of fertility and was strongly associated with the region, as it mirrored the red rock of Tsakonia, a symbol of the local geography and culture.
During the reign of King Otto and Queen Amalia, the “fesi” with the dark-colored tassel became a fashionable item. Meanwhile, Tsakonian women wore white handmade socks with plant motifs and gold-embroidered slippers, adding an element of refinement and formality.
The Costume Today
The Municipality of South Kynouria preserves these costumes in the central library and lends them to the Leonidio dance club, which uses them in various cultural events and festivals, proudly representing the Tsakonian tradition. The costumes are also loaned to schoolgirls for participation in parades. The attire is displayed at the “Fabbrica of Culture” in Leonidio, allowing visitors to admire the complexity of the fabrics and embroidery up close. Additionally, one of the Tsakonian costumes is exhibited at the Benaki Museum in Athens, offering a wider audience the opportunity to appreciate this unique piece of Greek cultural heritage.
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